streets of sand

Puerto Villamil, Isabela, Galápagos Islands

I ♥ streets así. It's as if your feet never leave the beach.

isabela wildlife

Sea lion


Galápagos penguins


Sally Lightfoot crab

We went for a little wildlife cruise one day off the island of Isabela in the Galápagos. It's so fascinating to see penguins on the equator - and a little surreal. One of my favorite wildlife stories was that of the Sally Lightfoot crab. The crab walks beautifully, on its toes. The crab's name is said to have been inspired by a nightclub dancer in Guayaquil that attracted sailors with her equally eloquent moves.

invasive species

Puerto Ayora


Baltra


Guayaquil

No, I'm not talking about our group...though we were probably more invasive than we needed to be at times. I'm talking about the the fragile (and one-of-a-kind) ecosystem of the Galápagos. (Read more here.) Interesting measures are being taken to prevent the presence of more invasive species on the islands.

First, the airplane was fumigated while on the ground in Guayaquil. You can see this happening in the photograph. (The flight attendant in front has a small aerosol can he is spraying into the overhead compartments.) I couldn't take the fumigation very seriously 1) because we were on board the airplane when it happened 2) rumor has it a fly survived the fumigation. Maybe it's a good idea, but I question its effectiveness.

Second, after deboarding the plane in Baltra everyone must step on a spongy, blue mat. This helps rid your shoes of dirt, debris and, most importantly, seeds. You also step on these mats every time you leave and/or enter a new island. Remember, the islands don't all share the same ecosystem.

Third, every time you go from one island to the next, your bags are inspected. Most of the inspections were about as serious as the fumigation on the airplane. However, a new system (law?) was put into effect in Puerto Ayora between our stays there, and the last time we left the island, the inspection was incredibly thorough. We joked that it was the most thorough inspection ever carried out on the islands. Though it's somewhat of an inconvenience to wait for the inspection (especially in a group of 28!), I don't think you can put a price on the native and endangered species of the islands. Inspect away.

wait, there are people in galápagos?

A mural in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz depicting the history of the islands


Puerto Villamil, Isabela


Puerto Villamil, Isabela


Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristóbal


Malecón in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz

When I tell stories about my trip, most people are surprised to find out that people live on the Galápagos Islands. I share these photographs to show the three towns we stayed in; all with populations, hotels, restaurants and modern amenities.

Puerto Ayora on the island of Santa Cruz is the largest of the three towns. It's home to the Charles Darwin Research Station, where Lonesome George lives. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on the island of San Cristóbal is the island's second largest city. It's the capital city and home to the university and a fantastic interpretation center. Puerto Villamil on the island of Isabela is a smaller, sleepier town on the archipelgo's largest island. The streets are sand and the people are beautiful. If you go to Bar de Beto (arguably the island's best bar) you might even get some chewed gum in your popcorn. Yum!

The islands' population is estimated to be between 30,000 and 40,000. Last year, more than 100,000 tourists visited the Galápagos. This is a major concern to the islands that are 97 percent National Park. Restrictions have been placed on both tourism and immigration. UNESCO also added the Galápagos to the World Heritage Site “in danger” list under the recommendation of the World Conservation Union. If you want to read more, check this out.

galapagueno flags

Puerto Villamil, Isabela


Puerto Villamil, Isabela


Ferry from Baltra to Santa Cruz

Flags need the wind to fly. Six hundred miles off the coast of South America, the Galápagos has plenty of this element. The flags fly proud, tattered and torn, from docks, boats and rooftops. Specks of color amidst clouds of grey.

amable

On the island of Isabela there is a man called Amable. His name means "kind" in English. He owns a small bar and sings songs about his love, home and land. There are one and the same - Galápagos.

volcán chico

Lava fields


500 to 800-year-old cactus


Volcán Chico

In the shadows of Sierra Negra lies another active volcanic zone, known as Volcán Chico. Sulphur, iron, Pahoehoe lava and A'a lava cover the landscape. You can actually see small chunks of pure yellow sulphur mixed in with other volcanic rock. Lone cacti decorate the landscape. This one is between 500 and 800 years old.

sierra negra

Sierra Negra's 10-kilometer wide caldera





We hiked 10 miles to, from and around her caldera. She last erupted in 2005. You can find her on Isabela in the Galápagos.